Early-’90s tailoring gets its high-fashion moment.
Kanye West takes his clothes very seriously. That’s not to say that he wears very serious clothes—at least not since he traded in his leather kilts for baggy sweatpants a few years ago. But sometimes the dude still knows how to dress up.
This weekend, for example, Yeezy suited up for Ellen DeGeneres’s 60th (!) birthday party in Los Angeles wearing a quasi-suit not unlike what your dad might’ve worn to his own 60th birthday party—only it managed to be a bit more fashionable than good ol’ dad. West’s jacket was oversized and done in a nubby fabric, and he wore mismatched, slightly baggy tux pants; his shoes were low-top Dr. Martens (sticker price: $120). And yet, while this look appears on the surface to be all about comfort and just, you know, getting out the door, it’s also an of-the-moment flex.
The late ‘80s and early ‘90s have been a source of inspiration for numerous designers recently, most notably Balenciaga’s Demna Gvasalia, who has turned that time period’s trends into highly coveted menswear grails in the span of a few seasons. Stylish guys have embraced the era’s chunky sneakers, light-wash jeans, and windbreakers with enthusiasm. But they’ve mostly left the boxy, David Byrne-level suits alone. After all, it’s one thing to nod to dad style with your weekend wardrobe, it’s another thing to roll up to your friend’s wedding or place of employment in Big & Tall tailoring. But Kanye West is an all-in type of guy, and his friends and bosses count on him to stand out, not blend in. And so his party suit is trendier then your party suit. It’s double-breasted, and it’s gigantic, and it’s growing us.
If 1993 dad-approved formalwear speaks to your soul, but you don’t have the creative license (or clothing budget) of Kanye West, try a matching suit that’s just a little bit roomier than normal, and chunky derby shoes. The move will set you apart from the crowd—without forcing you to spend the entire night explaining the intricacies of your outfit to everyone.
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